Dru North Face

Before Pierre Allain and Raymond Leininger climbed the north face of the Dru for the first time, their training was on the boulders of Fontainebleau. My plan was to copy their approach

Cyrill on the summit of Petit Dru.

Granite Rematches: Inox, Grand Capucin and Chandelle du Tacul

Oftentimes the climbs you remember most vividly are not the ones you succeed on, but rather the ones where you come short. I often catch myself talking about an unclimbed peak in the Revelations that Frieder I and could not climb despite three attempts. I still daydream what it would be like to go back there.

At the same time, having failed on routes - they become easy choices for planning the next trip. This summer, with little time for planning new things, it was about the rematches.

Back on the Grand Capucin

California Dream, Pointe 3038 de Trélaporte

What happens when a Guru of alpine granite combines forces with a world champion in sport climbing? When I saw the names of Michel Piola and Romain Desgrange in the guidebook, my interest was picked. Many enthusiastic reports of the quality and the beauty of the climb cemented it further, we had to check it out ourselves!

Aiguille d'Argentière

Eager to get some acclimatization, we went to Argentiere basin for a weekend. In addition to pretty good snow, we got to do some sunbathing and climb a few pitches of ice.

Long night on Midi-Plan ridge and a sunny afternoon in Foehnmauer

It is probably quite a general law of life that when you don’t take something seriously enough, it gets you. Frieder and I (re)learned it one more time after climbing Le Fil a Plomb on Rognon du plan.

Saule on a day we chose to be wiser

Snow

Having escaped the winter this time, it was very enjoyable to put in a few turns upon returning to the northern hemisphere.

Chamonix weekend: Climbing Pic Adolphe Rey, Bailing from Chandelle du Tacul and giving shit to shitters

With a promise of clear skies and rumours that the old LUMC gang was in Chamonix, I was very keen to go and check out some of the granite towers there. Chamonix is the mothership of alpine climbing with all the good and bad things that come with it. The sad part is that the crazy good access to the amazing terrain attracts all kind of folks, including the ones that may shit in the crack that you are about to jam. But about that a bit later.

Swiss route on Les Courtes

The sound of the squeaky névé is so pleasant to the ear and yet, every time I try to explain to someone what it sounds like, we end up discussing animal rights. Go figure.

North face of Les Courtes. Swiss route goes pretty much straight to the sun.