Bockmattli

Ever since spotting the pretty rock face of Bockmattli during one of my bike rides round Zurisee, I was eager to check it out from closer. It turned out to be a really worthwhile cliff, almost a local small-big-wall. Fabio and I did the classic Direkte Nordwand.

The route goes just to the left of the huge corner on the main face

The best thing about it - just under one hour from the mighty city of Thalwil by public transport followed by an enjoyable walk(~1.5hrs) to the base. Yet it gives quite a kick - you need to actually do some routefinding and the climbing, especially in the upper reaches is pleasantly exposed. Finally, once you are already on the top of the rock tower, you need to to a ridge traverse to reach the main summit, which takes quite some time. All in all - a great day. Already looking forward to coming back and giving the Supertramp a go.

On the approach

A bit gloomy on one of the initial pitches. Fabio squeezing in the top left.

Fun climbing higher up.


In Switzerland, topos are superfluous, since all the routes are indicated by the directions on the approach.